tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61791756093257315682024-03-13T01:41:50.681-07:00Honeydrunk ApiaresFeaturing content for new beekeepers, and experienced alike. How to build your own bee hive equipment.commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-12068583681157592442014-11-12T16:11:00.001-08:002014-11-12T16:11:50.263-08:00Build Your Own: Swarm Trap<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here is a quick swarm trap based upon the plans for <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-10-frame-deep-minimal.html" target="_blank">10 Frame Deep (Minimal Tools)</a> this is based on suggestions and previous swarm traps by Tim Ives, and some good old scientific backing from Tom Seeley.<br />
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Tom Seeley did a number of experiments on swarming behavior in his book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Honeybee-Democracy-Thomas-D-Seeley/dp/0691147213/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1415833309&sr=1-1&keywords=honeybee+democracy" target="_blank">Honeybee Democracy</a>, which created an outline of what bees find desirable when selecting a space for a new hive.You can find a short PDF written by Seeley entitled <i>Bait Hives for Honeybees</i> <a href="https://ecommons.library.cornell.edu/bitstream/1813/2653/2/Bait%20Hives%20for%20Honey%20Bees.pdfsig2=OfJxc-ZkhxVMGfXi9ssmSQ" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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His experiments concluded that a desirable nest site for a honeybee must be: 40 litres in volume, and have an entrance of 15 cm sq.(2.325 inches) So some fancy converting and sacrificing had to be done to come up with the closest, and most practical solution. The above design, is 1/4" larger than a standard hive body. This is to accomodate no innercover (simply plywood roof), no bottom board, and still maintain beespace.<br />
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Volume:<br />
Swarm Trap: 1.5489 Feet - 43.86 Litres<br />
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The entrance however is a little trickier. to find the radius I needed I performed the following equation<br />
<i>r = Square root (15cm2 area / <span class="st" data-hveid="42"><em>π )</em></span></i><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><em>= 2.19cm</em></span><br />
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<span class="st" data-hveid="42">or, 0.862205 inches. </span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">d = 2r</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">= 1.72441 in</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">Consulting a decimal to fraction sheet, gives us: 1 23/32" (1.7188) as the closest match, but good luck find a hole saw that size! So common hole saw sizes in mind our choices are limited to:</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">1 5/8" (1.625) </span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">1 3/4" (1.75) </span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><i>Either should work fine, but 1 3/4" is the closer match.</i></span><br />
<br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">Conversely you could cut a slot for an entrance. This will work better for keep mice, birds and other pests out. So keeping with the theme of working with more common hand tools. Lets figure out what we need. For this youll need a drill and a jig saw, or a router with a 3/8 bit. We need to create two holes for our jig saw to get in to cut the slot, 3/8ths is beespace so lets use that.</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><i> </i></span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">2.325 <i>inches - 0.11 (the area of a 3/8" circle, we need two but in the end theyll be half circles)</i></span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><i>= 2.215"</i></span><br />
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<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><i>2.215 / 0.375 (the width of our slot)</i></span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><i>=5.9 (or six inches to keep it simple)</i></span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><i><br /></i></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">Homework out of the way lets get to building. Ill show the modifications to the previous design. If I leave something out refer to it.</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
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<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">The height of the sides has been increased by 1/4". This maintains correct beespace on the bottom and top as we are not using an inner cover or bottom board.</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
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<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">Next we need to add our hole. The lower on the box the better according to Seeley.</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
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<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><i> </i>If you want to cut a slot and do not have a router, start like this. Find your middle, make a mark. Go up about an 3/4" and make a 6" line. </span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
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<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">Next drill a 3/8" hole right at the end of each line. (<i>the picture shows the circles radius</i>)</span><br />
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<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><i> </i>Then using a dremel, thin jigsaw blade, etc. make two cuts at the top of each circle to complete your slot.</span><br />
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<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><em><br /></em>The final step is to add our floor and roof. For that find scrap plywood 16 3/4" by 21 1/8" and screw to the hive body (you will want to be able to remove the top to re hive your swarm).</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><br /></span>
<span class="st" data-hveid="42">Thats it for now, happy hunting!</span><br />
<span class="st" data-hveid="42"><em><br /></em></span>
<br />commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-84395235417198113902014-11-12T09:06:00.001-08:002014-11-12T09:27:50.184-08:00Build Your Own - 10 Frame Deep (Minimal Tools)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span id="goog_2070322637"></span><span id="goog_2070322638"></span><br />
<span id="goog_2070322637">A friend of mine Bill Reynolds, who administers the Northern Beekeeping Facebook group</span><span id="goog_2070322638"></span> asked me to design a simple to build hive that required minimal joinery work. Taking inspiration from the Coates Nuc Box design, we end up with a simple butt jointed box with no rabbets, dados, or fancy joinery of any kind. I elected to use barn board in combination with 3/8" plywood for added strength (10 frame deeps are much heavier than nuc boxes), as well as for a little more thermal protection. Another nice thing about this design is that with the exception of the handles, it does not matter what thickness of material you use for the sides the dimensions stay the same!<br />
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<h4>
You will need </h4>
Plywood 3/8" - 4' x 8' (makes 30 pcs)<br />
Barn board (1" thick, 12" wide) - at least 38 3/8" long (you will need a little extra scrap)<br />
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Lets start by ripping down the 3/8" plywood into 9" strips (or 14 3/4" strips you will still end up with the same amount of pcs). This is best accomplished with a tablesaw, but a circular saw will work just fine (try to fashion a fence out of scrap lumber to keep your lines straight, as these will be your frame rest and dimension is critical). If you ask nicely at your local lumber yard, they might cut the strips down for you. Most good old Mom and Pops places probably will, Big box not so much.<br />
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Then cut those 9" strips down to 14 3/4", you should end up with six. Set those aside.<br />
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Next rip the barn board down to 9 5/8" strips, these will serve as the sides. Save the remaining strip as these will serve as handles.<br />
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Cut the remaining strips to 16 3/4" for the handles. You will need two extra strips of wood this length so use what scrap you have. Note: The strip is actually 1 7/8" if you use the strip from the barn board you cut.<br />
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Assemble the box as shown using wood screws. I recommend at least 2" wood screws, as these are what is carrying the weight.<br />
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Attach the plywood using screws, making sure you keep the dimensions for the frame rests as perfect as possible.<br />
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<h4>
Modification</h4>
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Instead of using scrap or wasting wood for the bottom strip. You can cut an extra piece of 3/8" plywood 7 3/4" by 16 3/4" to use as the front. I feel this is a stronger joint and provides better thermal protection. It does make the project more costly. Make sure you lay out your cuts on the plywood first to make the most efficient use of the material.<br />
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Note: <i>The width of the handles is simply convenience and using the 1 7/8" strip from the barn board, they can be made out of anything you feel is strong enough for the job.</i><br />
<h4>
</h4>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-13900907322823442762014-11-10T14:45:00.000-08:002014-11-10T14:45:20.198-08:00Build Your Own: Queen Rearing Cell Bar Frame<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Alrighty good people, before you get started trying to build this frame, quickly give the tutorial on building your own <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-shoulderless-frame.html" target="_blank">Shoulderless Frame</a> a glimpse. This is the same idea with a few modifications. This tutorial uses the same stock cuts as the previous tutorial, with the exception that our end bars will be using 1" by 3/4" material. Make these out of scrap.<br />
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Lets begin with the top bar. It is the same as the one in shoulderless frame tutorial, however we need to increase the depth of the cut to accommodate our thicker end bars.<br />
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The end bars are a little more complicated. Make them as per original tutorial except increase the thickness by double (3/4"). Then made your various grooves using a table saw or router. If you do not have these simply nail blocks of 3/8" wood into the required places creating the grooves (not as pretty but it works).<br />
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Our cell bars and bottom bar are made from the same wood, using the same method.<br />
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You will need one at 17 3/4" to use as a bottom board, and three at 17" to function as your cell bar. commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-51879937957060976242014-11-10T12:59:00.001-08:002014-11-10T12:59:19.405-08:00Build Your Own - 6 Frame Nuc <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This 6 Frame Nuc is designed for use with the <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-honeydrunks-queen-castle.html" target="_blank">3 Frame by 4 Compartment Queen Castle</a> I designed. For detailed construction information refer to the tutorial in <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-5-frame-nuc.html" target="_blank">How to Build: 5 Frame Nuc</a>.<br />
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This 6 frame nuc is not standardized equipment. It is slightly over-sized for a six frame, however it works just fine. Use it on its own, or in conjunction with the Queen Castle I designed. <br />
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Using our favourite stock material -barn boards (also known as 1x12). Cut out the specified material. You will need a piece 8' 6 5/8".<br />
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Start by cutting out the 20 1/8" by 11" and the 21 1/2" by 10" sections crosswise with a mitre saw. Then adjust your table saw's fence to 9 5/8" and rip the rest of the material. After accomplishing this set the fence to 1 7/8" and rip the strip you just took off as well as the 21 1/2" by 10" piece. This is the most efficient way to do it. Afterward set the fence to 11 inches, and using your mitre saw finish all the required cuts.<br />
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<h4>
Nuc Box</h4>
Front/Back (2) - 9 5/8" x 11"<br />
Sides (2) - 9 5/8" x 19 1/8"<br />
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<h4>
Top Cover</h4>
Top - 11" x 20 1/8"<br />
Handles (2) - 11" x 1 7/8" <br />
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<b>Bottom Board </b><br />
Floor - 10" x 21 1/2"<br />
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Side Rail (2) - 1 7/8" x 21 1/2"<br />
Back Rail - 1 7/8" x 11"<br />
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Now simply make your required rabbet joints, dado cuts, and frame rest as described in other tutorials. For the bottom board, I changed the method of construction to the one used in <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-solid-bottom-board.html" target="_blank">Build Your Own: Solid Bottom Board </a>to maximize lumber use.commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-6024556524948078432014-11-10T11:25:00.000-08:002014-11-10T11:25:31.262-08:00Build Your Own: Queen Castle - Three Frames by Three <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is simply for reference, follow the directions for the <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-queen-castle-two-frame.html" target="_blank">Two Frames by Four Queen Castle</a>. There are a few differences.<br />
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Dividers - You will need three 1/4" dividers cut at 19 1/8" x 10 1/2"<br />
Inner Covers - Two at 19 1/8" x 4 3/4" and one at 19 1/8" x 4 7/8"<br />
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Three frame queen castles allow the queen to build out a little more, allowing the beekeeper more time before they overflow and begin swarming preparations. If you sell nucs, a four frame nuc would simply be one of these compartments, plus a frame of empty comb/foundation. If you take out a divider you will be able to put in seven frames, however it is very tight.<br />
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If you take a <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-solid-bottom-board.html" target="_blank">Solid Bottom Board </a>and run two dividers down the middle to the end of the landing board to correspond with the Queen Castle dividers it can make a great landing board. I know a queen breeder that uses these, and paints each divided landing board a separate colour. I could see problems with queens entering the wrong entrance. Otherwise simple cut holes on three separate sides for entrances.<br />
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commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-86170377752297413972014-11-10T10:28:00.003-08:002014-11-10T13:24:38.006-08:00Build Your Own: Queen Castle Two Frame by Four <br />
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Here is a requested Queen Castle setup. It is a modified standard deep box, so your top cover will work with it. For a bottom board the easiest method would be to fasten a piece of plywood to the bottom. If I get ambitious enough I will make plans for a fancy bottom board so you can forgo cutting holes in the box. This plan assumes you are comfortable with making your own deep, if not check out the tutorial <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-10-frame-hive-body-78.html" target="_blank">Build Your Own 10 Frame Hive Body</a>.<br />
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It is in principal the exact same as a deep hive body except it is taller to accommodate individual wooden inner covers, and has additional dado cuts in the front and back to accept dividers. This queen castle plan uses same size compartments as opposed to other plans that typically have odd sized ones.<br />
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You will need:<br />
<br />
<b>Rough Pine</b><br />
Sides - (2) 19 1/8" x 10 1/2" x 7/8" <br />
Front/Back - (2) 16 5/8" x 10 1/2" x 7/8"<br />
Inner Covers - (4) 19 1/8" x 3 1/2" x 7/8"<br />
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<b>Plywood Dividers</b><br />
(2) 19 1/8" x 10 1/2" x 1/4"<br />
(1) 19 1/8" x 10 1/2" x 7/16" (if you cannot find 7/16" plywood, use 3/8" or take 1/2" and sand the ends down to fit)<br />
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<b>Floor</b> <br />
(1) 19 1/8" x 16 5/8" (can be made out of anything, plywood works great, just screw evenly to the bottom)<br />
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*Sorry, been way to busy making these plans I have not had time to draw out a cutlist for you.<br />
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Next create all the dado and rabbet cuts to these dimensions. This may take some time and forethought to accomplish so I suggest laying it out in pencil before attempting to cut it.<br />
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When this is accomplished take your sides (they dont need any work done to them yet) and assemble the box.<br />
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Next cut your dividers to these dimensions. You will need two 1/4" pieces, and one 7/16" (or 3/8"). Insert these into box. Do not bother fastening them. Removing them can create different spaces, and configurations to suit your needs.<br />
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Take scrap, or rip a 3 1/2" strip of 7/8" pine. Really any thickness will work for the inner covers.<br />
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Now take a drill and make a 3/4" to 1" hole for each compartment. Add your dividers attach a floor and you are on your way to making queens.<br />
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<h3>
Variation</h3>
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For those wanting to use a standard depth hive body. I have included these additional measurements. The inner covers sit on top of the frames, allowing bee passage underneath, whereas the above design does not allow that. This is very similar to the <a href="http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Queen-Castle/productinfo/687/" target="_blank">Brush Mountain Queen Castle</a>.<br />
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All the measurements for your dividers remain the same. The hive body itself is standard 9 5/8" depth. You will however need to change:<br />
<br />
Inner Cover<br />
(2) - 20 1/8" x 4 3/8"<br />
(2) - 20 1/8" x 3 1/2"commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-29804121885934805392014-11-09T17:11:00.001-08:002014-11-09T17:11:19.650-08:00Build Your Own - Medium Hive Body<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I am going to cheat you guys on this one and not provide a tutorial. If you are confused follow the <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-10-frame-hive-body-78.html" target="_blank">Build Your Own: Deep Hive Body</a> tutorial.<br />
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The process is the exact same with the exception of a 6 5/8 depth instead of 9 5/8. I do not recommend using my typical choice of 1 by 12 rough pine as it leaves a great deal of waste. Instead call around to lumber mills and enquire if you can purchase 1 by 8 rough pine (they will probably have it). commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-21666032828084602812014-11-09T16:56:00.000-08:002014-11-09T16:56:13.921-08:00Build Your Own: Insulated Top Cover<br />
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Admittedly, I haven't built this one yet. However I did design it. This is a telescoping top cover with the addition of 1.5 inches of rigid foam insulation. Its total R-Value is about R-8.75. Normal top covers have an insulation value of less than 1.<br />
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<b>Materials </b><br />
<br />
Pine (at least 3 3/4" wide, and 81 1/8" long)<br />
Ext Plywood 3/4" - 22 1/2" by 18 7/8"<br />
Plywood 1/4" - 22 1/4" by 17 7/8"<br />
<br />
Like all project I am going to assume you are using our favourite barn board. So get that table saw out, and rip a strip off 3 3/4"<br />
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Discard the larger piece. Now create the recess which holds the insulation.<br />
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Now cut that strip into our required parts. You will need:<br />
<ul>
<li>(2) 18 7/8"</li>
<li>(2) 21 1/2</li>
</ul>
Next take the 18 7/8" pieces, and we are going to add a rabbet joint to each end.<br />
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That finished, it is time to assemble the basic frame using whatever fasteners you choose (nails, staples, screws, glue).<br />
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Next place the piece of 1/4" plywood (22 1/4" by 17 7/8") in the recessed area. Although it is not necessary to fasten it, I would recommend it.<br />
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Place the rigid insulation in the recess. Once again, not necessary to fasten it, but using some adhesive could be beneficial.<br />
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Fasten the plywood top, and you are away to the races. You may wish to wrap the hive in aluminum flashing for weather protection. That is a different tutorial however.<br />
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<br />commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-7939866570182085202014-11-09T14:49:00.002-08:002014-11-09T15:01:21.684-08:00Build Your Own: Entrance Reducer<span style="color: red;">Correction: Proper length for entrance reducer is 14 1/2" </span><br />
<br />
Nothing goes to waste in a beekeepers workshop! Entrance reducers can be made from commonly destined for the wood pile. This one features two different entrance, one at 1" and another at 3" depending on your needs (or the bees for that matter).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjVZ80Ej6ZMT2AgAsHXLdLN_FPFebpkiuUnRzr5u1O604I5-Y9tEkJoORHXrnb1KlgXENP9KxTmDykpjj4Oi1ugaGCwcVdtdK2hlQf_iYN3AgGyHtsju_Zb5JkESsRVNS6vYWYtGgCxo/s1600/beekeeping+-+entrance+reducer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjVZ80Ej6ZMT2AgAsHXLdLN_FPFebpkiuUnRzr5u1O604I5-Y9tEkJoORHXrnb1KlgXENP9KxTmDykpjj4Oi1ugaGCwcVdtdK2hlQf_iYN3AgGyHtsju_Zb5JkESsRVNS6vYWYtGgCxo/s1600/beekeeping+-+entrance+reducer.jpg" height="314" width="640" /></a></div>
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One tip, is it can be useful to taper by the top and the back side
(relative to the picture). Sometimes you will find the reducer just does
not want to fit (moisture in wood equals expansion). This can alleviate
that problem. All it takes is a hand planer, even your hive tool or pocket knife can take off just a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnU9r7YtAtpYpGjTHh9P-bFuokwXHUHVFQMtO29lXs21Cm9WLxbubtKX6-Qe1vLEePnEUOqPwTwYW4cq5PrHQsWhyphenhyphenockmG7MB3LkETCetPDVRrONLtRUSlbz2Olb3veW2PDGZdqn4NWoU/s1600/beekeeping+-+entrance+reducer2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnU9r7YtAtpYpGjTHh9P-bFuokwXHUHVFQMtO29lXs21Cm9WLxbubtKX6-Qe1vLEePnEUOqPwTwYW4cq5PrHQsWhyphenhyphenockmG7MB3LkETCetPDVRrONLtRUSlbz2Olb3veW2PDGZdqn4NWoU/s1600/beekeeping+-+entrance+reducer2.jpg" height="313" width="640" /></a></div>
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Just 1/16" to 1/8" can be just enough to create problem free entrance reducers. I just did the end for demonstration.<br />
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<br />commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-37224356848039241412014-11-09T12:21:00.001-08:002014-11-09T12:21:37.585-08:00Build Your Own: Combination Bottom Board<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidA_5DjipErfVImAjz3lcTnJxZxNNmTHX8Z7tIBizkG3ZYaMBIcFDWArDrny7-wfgrER5zIv08KxW0uIVS__wWJ4bCzILblGVpp1aMPUEWZBqW3P15VC8FssG0VpMp4fFLBab1BCaAGuc/s1600/Combination+BottomB5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidA_5DjipErfVImAjz3lcTnJxZxNNmTHX8Z7tIBizkG3ZYaMBIcFDWArDrny7-wfgrER5zIv08KxW0uIVS__wWJ4bCzILblGVpp1aMPUEWZBqW3P15VC8FssG0VpMp4fFLBab1BCaAGuc/s1600/Combination+BottomB5.jpg" height="314" width="640" /></a></div>
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Many supply stores now carry what is called the Combination Bottom Board. They charge an exorbitant amount of money for them, they are typically combining the idea behind a screened and a solid bottom board. They also usually feature one set of rails with various grooves cut out of them. This can make them very weak. Using the plans from both tutorials <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-screened-bottom-board.html" target="_blank">Screened Bottom Board</a>, and <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-solid-bottom-board.html" target="_blank">Solid Bottom Board</a> we can come up with a much better, cheaper, and more useful solution (lets not reinvent the wheel).<br />
<br />
First take your screened and solid bottom boards.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoubUD7aTObV8IJrxCyJgzBuhX8HotezjJdSlxXVwUxEQZhfGWshkj8B4i1Ea43Y8M0Q4ZBDuNQQ_oQAD3CxnrpLdB7HoXHBi8jaQbwCnd2PcKtwuMqcevs-fsOD1rVpA18Edzm9_qSYA/s1600/Combination+BottomB1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoubUD7aTObV8IJrxCyJgzBuhX8HotezjJdSlxXVwUxEQZhfGWshkj8B4i1Ea43Y8M0Q4ZBDuNQQ_oQAD3CxnrpLdB7HoXHBi8jaQbwCnd2PcKtwuMqcevs-fsOD1rVpA18Edzm9_qSYA/s1600/Combination+BottomB1.jpg" height="313" width="640" /></a></div>
Now put them in reverse directions, and make sure both 3/8" entrances are facing each other.<br />
<br />
Solid Bottom Board 3/8" up<br />
Screened Bottom Board 3/8" down<br />
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Put them on top of one another.<br />
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<br />
This leaves you with a gap of 3/4". This is exactly the space that an entrance reducer will fit into. So lets take a spare entrance reducer, and using tacks/glue/tape (whatever really) attach a mite board to it. Anything of the right size will work, cover it in vaseline or your choice of "make the mites stick the board" solution. Put the sticky board / entrance reducer into the gap. I place the entrance opening up to allow ventilation, but it is your choice.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZoiHCDAgwB_L19Q3_tNJtznyAtk45qBcn2nEP1YxaEqLlbm81o7hz63kwpSdFYdr7yq0Rfdd_9DKcmTb8gfBKusddbWdwWG9gOIJcztG7RkGKXMoUh5VzxYshXh2FgajQe1AEYO5q3E/s1600/Combination+BottomB4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZoiHCDAgwB_L19Q3_tNJtznyAtk45qBcn2nEP1YxaEqLlbm81o7hz63kwpSdFYdr7yq0Rfdd_9DKcmTb8gfBKusddbWdwWG9gOIJcztG7RkGKXMoUh5VzxYshXh2FgajQe1AEYO5q3E/s1600/Combination+BottomB4.jpg" height="314" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now we have a fancy combination bottom board without the heavy bill for one. In addition we have extra bottom boards at the apiary, a way to do mite counts, and a spare entrance reducer all in one hive. Cheers!<br />
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<br />commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-29571869590748670832014-11-09T11:23:00.001-08:002014-11-10T11:49:22.491-08:00Build Your Own: 5 Frame Nuc<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBlm7sBTjOmjJ6btfAdbnIkCaRoYj29zdjDW9rNIfZcqYiViREfywuNeo1NBEOSZ5-dlReXuMNHiUWFt10cne_Gx_GGT3rCSCKJo-K6kF0006qaOLij34cu43fbQdYTFDDNSO-ILMRLx4/s1600/5+Frame+Nuc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBlm7sBTjOmjJ6btfAdbnIkCaRoYj29zdjDW9rNIfZcqYiViREfywuNeo1NBEOSZ5-dlReXuMNHiUWFt10cne_Gx_GGT3rCSCKJo-K6kF0006qaOLij34cu43fbQdYTFDDNSO-ILMRLx4/s1600/5+Frame+Nuc.jpg" height="314" width="640" /></a></div>
This tutorial will base itself on everything else. If you have not currently read the <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-10-frame-hive-body-78.html" target="_blank">10 Frame Hive Body</a> or the <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-solid-bottom-board.html" target="_blank">Solid Bottom Board</a> please do so. I will not be going into how to cut out the frame rest, etc so be comfortable with the previous material. You will have the option of either using 3/4" plywood for the bottom board or 7/8" Pine. I prefer the exterior ply floor, as this project uses up 7' 7 7/8" of pine board. This means <br />
you should get 22 Nuc Boxes out of 13 twelve foot boards, a sheet of plywood, with scrap leftover.<br />
<br />
<b>Cost (22 Nucs):</b><br />
Rough Pine x13@$1.15 (1x12x7/8) =<b> </b>$179.40<br />
Exterior Plywood 1@$36.52 = $36.52<br />
<br />
Total: $215.92<br />
/per Nuc $9.81<br />
<br />
The material for this is our favorite barn board 1x12x1. Plane one side down to 7/8, or buy it in 7/8s (depends on your source whether or not its 7/8" or 1")<br />
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This cut list is pretty complicated, so pay close attention. Click on the images to enlarge.<span style="color: red;"> (Correction, Top is 20 1/8" sorry for the confusion)</span><br />
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<br />
<i>Note: Dark brown denotes scrap.</i><br />
<br />
Begin by cutting your board to 79 7/8" (or 80"). Setup your fence to 9 1/2" and rip the lumber. Now you have a large piece which contains the majority of the components, and a strip that contains the handles for the top, and rails for the bottom board. Despite the plan showing 2" handles for the top cover, leaving them at 2 7/8" is fine. Cut them out of your strip.<br />
<br />
Next, depending on whether you use 3/4" Exterior Ply for your bottom board, or 7/8" Pine you want to rip the remaining strip of wood to:<br />
<br />
Plywood 3/4" - 1 7/8"<br />
Pine 7/8" - 2"<br />
<br />
Continue cutting all the components out.You should end up with<br />
<br />
<b>Hive Body</b><br />
Front/Back - 9 1/2" x 9 5/8" x 7/8" (2)<br />
Side - 19 1/8" x 9 5/8" x 7/8 (2)<br />
<br />
<b>Top Cover</b><br />
Top - 20 1/8" x 9 1/2" x 7/8"<br />
Handle - 9 1/2" x 2" x 7/8" (2) (or 9 1/2" x 2 3/8" x 7/8" if you dont rip them down, I wouldn't bother ripping them.)<br />
<br />
<b>Bottom Board</b><br />
Side Rails - 22" x 1 7/8" x 7/8" (2) (or 22" x 2" x 7/8 if you use pine for the floor)<br />
Back Rail - 8 1/2" x 1 7/8" x 7/8"<br />
Floor - 21 1/2" x 8 1/2" x 3/4" (same dimensions if using 7/8" pine)<br />
<br />
<h4>
Top Cover</h4>
<br />
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<br />
Simply assemble the handles to the top using screws, nails, staples, and/or glue.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Bottom Board</h4>
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<h4>
</h4>
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<br />
The side rails, and back rail will have to be grooved to accept the floor. This is covered in the previous tutorial on <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-solid-bottom-board.html" target="_blank">Solid Bottom Boards</a>. If you elect to go with a 7/8 pine board for the floor your overall height will be 2", and the groove thickness increased to 7/8" with the 3/4" and 3/8" remaining the same.<br />
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<br />
Next rabbets are made in the side rails. Make sure to line them up and mark the tops as they are non reversible (in the tutorial I believe I rabbeted the back rails, feel free to follow either way, less mess ups doing the back rail).<br />
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Insert the floor, and assemble using your choice of fasteners.<br />
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<br />
<h4>
Nuc Hive Body </h4>
Pretty straight forward, use the instructions in the tutorial on <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-10-frame-hive-body-78.html" target="_blank">10 Frame Deep</a> to rabbet out the front and back pieces to receive the sides, and add the frame rest, as well as the handles. After that is completed Assemble.<br />
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<h4>
</h4>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-15650263317329379282014-11-09T07:24:00.001-08:002014-11-09T07:24:48.814-08:00Build Your Own: Shoulderless Frame<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My first year, I bought six single deeps. Each had nine frames. However something was weird about those frames, they were not self spacing frames like I was commonly used to. I thought I got ripped off. However I came to think about it over the years and learned to love shoulderless frames. Sure, its a little more work to space them out but they do have many benefits.<br />
<br />
They are quite easy to build, unlike the fancy milled store bought ones; and they can be made from scrap. Used in a honey super, they are extremely easy to uncap. They would great in nine frame, ten frame, and even eleven frame configuration. Many Michael Bush followers testify to small cell, 1 1/4" comb spacing in the brood box. Consequently they spend a great deal of time cutting down perfectly good frames. This way you can space them as you would like, and you arent making equipment unusable if you switch back to common 1 3/8s spacing. They are also OLD SCHOOL, so if you want to be a hardcore beekeeper, you have to keep it old school!<br />
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There are many possible cut list for this project that are more efficient, I showed the easiest one. I will elaborate on that later.<br />
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<h4>
Step One</h4>
<h4>
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</h4>
You will require a strip of wood of 1" thickness (7/8" will also work fine, just make minor adjustments on the bottom bar), 35 1/2" long, and 1 1/4" wide. Set the fence on the table saw to 3/4" and rip the board down into 3/4" and 3/8" strips.<br />
<br />
It is much more efficient if you have a piece 1 3/4" wide stock wood, this way you can rip an additional 3/8" strip which will equal one frame every 19".Just add another 1/8" inch saw cut, and another 3/8" strip of wood in addition to the picture.<br />
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If you are running many of these off however just keep running off 3/4" and 3/8" strips.<br />
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<h4>
Step Two- Sizing it all up</h4>
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<br />
Cut the various lengths from your strips of wood.<br />
<br />
Top Bar - 19"<br />
End Bar - 8 3/4" (2)<i>* </i><br />
Bottom Bar - 17 3/4"<br />
<i> </i><br />
<i>*5 7/8" for Mediums</i>, <i>5" for Shallows</i><br />
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<br />
Set the fence to 7/8" and run your bottom bar through, this will take off 1/8"<br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Step Three - Top Bar</h4>
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Begin by cutting out the part of the frame that sits on the frame rest using a table saw, or router to the proper dimensions. Cut the one inch part first, as we will need a blade depth of 3/8" for the next step (save time).<br />
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Set the fence of your table saw to 7/16" if you want to be perfect. Otherwise set it to 1/2 inch. Adjust the blade depth to 3/8" (if it is not already there).<br />
<br />
<h4>
Step Four - Bottom Bar</h4>
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<br />
Adjust the depth of the saw blade to 1/4" and the fence to 3/8". Run the bottom bar through creating the slot for foundation.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Step Five - End Bars</h4>
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<br />
Despite the easy cut, be careful cutting out the bottom of the end bars. 1/16" does not leave a great deal of room for failure. The cut above is a depth of 3/8". If you are having problems keeping tight tolerances consider reducing the width of the bottom bar to 3/4". This will leave you with 1/8" on either side.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Step Six - Assemble</h4>
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commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-39537250694511546872014-11-08T20:14:00.001-08:002014-11-08T20:14:03.857-08:00Build Your Own: Honeydrunks Queen CastleThis has been an idea I have been toying with for some time. After watching Michael Palmers dual nuc setup I was inspired to... well think about new ways to go about things. One thing I didnt like about Palmers setup was the need for little mini four frame nucs. They are a little to small to use as a nuc on its own (unless you manage intensively like Palmer, and it was just another piece of non standard equipment. So I got thinking. Many people opt for three compartment by three frame queen castles: offers a little more room for them to grow and not swarm if you are a little late, uses a standard hive body (for the most part). I still was not sold. I do however use six frame in addition to five frame nucs. So my quest was to make a queen castle, that could be converted into a double nuc, and six frame nuc bodies could be added for overwintering or letting them grow out. Step into Honeydrunks Queen Castle. Lots of math in this baby. Beespace respected as much as possible but concessions were made.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYTiDFdToEKLyW0UsSgD05zvjh0jJRV-YINroBQNc50Fja4ZUmOFSOtutGGQeTFpMtVsxG9YANAHZudZdZw-x8Fl0jjpaVOxXlV4kTEmbTceFtJf3C4vem-jX1A7mg_MPGFzEtHUsthE/s1600/Beekeeping+Queen+Castle+-+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYTiDFdToEKLyW0UsSgD05zvjh0jJRV-YINroBQNc50Fja4ZUmOFSOtutGGQeTFpMtVsxG9YANAHZudZdZw-x8Fl0jjpaVOxXlV4kTEmbTceFtJf3C4vem-jX1A7mg_MPGFzEtHUsthE/s1600/Beekeeping+Queen+Castle+-+1.jpg" height="313" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical Queen Castle, 1/4 inch dividers, and a 1" divider in the centre.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of dividers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inner Covers in place</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQsn8UDDC4V2c5iusWA4KHTMwTtRgZcGyZ4VEIKYRXv5DHUD8Omxj0i9L7PmCqb1sdHitNaeBfMyqAiWVVh7W7QzeKVBkLm340rY-OUSMyJDf9MFnZfHhyNAchB8K8I_z7AlspGjFDmo/s1600/Beekeeping+Queen+Castle3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQsn8UDDC4V2c5iusWA4KHTMwTtRgZcGyZ4VEIKYRXv5DHUD8Omxj0i9L7PmCqb1sdHitNaeBfMyqAiWVVh7W7QzeKVBkLm340rY-OUSMyJDf9MFnZfHhyNAchB8K8I_z7AlspGjFDmo/s1600/Beekeeping+Queen+Castle3.jpg" height="313" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top Cover added, uses same top cover for 6 frame Nuc</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv6s7BybhJslzM-PU3x2XSkQAHRNjWaS18nu2ZMHmI229NeNKJTvRf-CSqDooa-gweMJ6bLULfypwc-ToKMk8kUdOk6h7FpdluSTA6EDNFQ9lcVHfYyZWxFNx64xXmp0I7y7eo5rWBLDA/s1600/Beekeeping+Queen+Castle4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv6s7BybhJslzM-PU3x2XSkQAHRNjWaS18nu2ZMHmI229NeNKJTvRf-CSqDooa-gweMJ6bLULfypwc-ToKMk8kUdOk6h7FpdluSTA6EDNFQ9lcVHfYyZWxFNx64xXmp0I7y7eo5rWBLDA/s1600/Beekeeping+Queen+Castle4.jpg" height="313" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Six frame Nuc added on top.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAFFS8rjcgHjR06eS03VMsHnEqidA5GhFpREMH28bTNDp3993PLzH19bOHVBYC6nlIA0mX8idQiSwKkx3N8RvWXssM1YHPir2g98V__ssh0yvTYubh8abeA3Qe70lrh7ei8G29pjMT6U0/s1600/Beekeeping+Queen+Castle5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAFFS8rjcgHjR06eS03VMsHnEqidA5GhFpREMH28bTNDp3993PLzH19bOHVBYC6nlIA0mX8idQiSwKkx3N8RvWXssM1YHPir2g98V__ssh0yvTYubh8abeA3Qe70lrh7ei8G29pjMT6U0/s1600/Beekeeping+Queen+Castle5.jpg" height="313" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Showing half Queen Castle configuration, and half Double Nuc with one deep six frame Nuc body.</td></tr>
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<br />commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-87004634120349729762014-11-08T15:43:00.000-08:002014-11-08T15:43:56.153-08:00Build Your Own: Solid Bottom Board<br />
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This one is a little trickier than the <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/build-your-own-screened-bottom-board.html" target="_blank">Screened Bottom Board</a>. It is reversible featuring both a 3/4" entrance as well as a 3/8" entrance. For this project you need a piece of pine at least 59 5/8", or similar scrap at a width of 1 7/8". In addition it uses 3/4" exterior plywood. Using all new material and my personal favorite 7/8 rough pine, you can save a great deal of money on bottom boards. To give you an idea.<br />
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<b>Makes 12</b><br />
Exterior Plywood 3/4" - $36.52 (Home Depot)<br />
Rough Pine 1'x12'x1" -$13.80 (Home Hardware)<br />
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Not including tax we can make 12 solid bottom boards for $50.34, or $4.20 a piece.<br />
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Step One</h3>
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Begin by making your rails. The stock dimension of lumber we are using is 1 7/8" by 7/8" thickness. We will begin by creating the dado (or groove) which will secure the plywood floor. The is best done using a dado blade on a table saw, or a router. If you lack either of these simply make multiple passes with your table saw until you achieve our 3/8" by 3/4" groove (might want to clean it up with a chisel.<br />
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Step Two</h3>
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Now simply cut the rails to the required length using a chop saw.<br />
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Step Three</h3>
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Now its time to rabbet the back rail. By doing this it creates a much stronger joint and overall bottom board. They do have to carry quite a bit of weight. Take the shorter piece of rail 16 5/8" and using the same method as you created the groove for the rails, rabbet out 7/8" on each side.<br />
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Step Four</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixnz4ZuK90ezJ2yNIXCfP-WAmTKHDveawtMhM2SP1hTK6kDFmdsYhcQzNBWtuKYYGhmEFaWdhJ0etLxXV9TjDkkwof5-XvBH0_hu1l9u71v34rA-Kt2oWm57mlfDBVrYw2dKsHk1zpFaw/s1600/Beekeeping+Solid+BB+-+Step+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixnz4ZuK90ezJ2yNIXCfP-WAmTKHDveawtMhM2SP1hTK6kDFmdsYhcQzNBWtuKYYGhmEFaWdhJ0etLxXV9TjDkkwof5-XvBH0_hu1l9u71v34rA-Kt2oWm57mlfDBVrYw2dKsHk1zpFaw/s1600/Beekeeping+Solid+BB+-+Step+4.jpg" height="313" width="640" /></a></div>
Next job is to cut the plywood. No matter which way you cut it you will get 12 bottom boards out of a 4x8 sheet. Dont over think it. It is helpful to have a friend around to help with the cutting/moving as the first cuts will be awkward by yourself (no worries the cut edge is hidden anyway). Begin by ripping the plywood to the dimensions above.<br />
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Step Five</h3>
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Assembly is rather straight forward. Glue and nail.commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-22554657240566484472014-11-08T12:43:00.000-08:002014-11-08T12:53:53.212-08:00Build Your Own: Screened Bottom Board<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is a really simple project you can make out of scrap. It is constructed from 1/2" Pine on the bottom, and 7/8" rails on the top. The side currently up can be used as your 3/4" "winter entrance", and can be reversed to reveal a 1/2" entrance. The screen is 1/8" hardware cloth you can purchase at most hardware/building stores. I have found that it is not usually kept in stock so you may have to get them to order it in for you.<br />
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Simply cut the hardware cloth 16 5/8 x 22 (cut it a little short so it doesn't stick out of the edges and catch on your clothes). I would start with the 3" front piece and staple the screen to that. Then add the 7/8" rails and back piece. Continue sandwiching it together until finished. With the exception of the hardware cloth, you could make these for free out of scrap from other projects.<br />
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Used in conjunction with a solid bottom board you can make the Combination Bottom Board located here: <a href="http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.ca/2014/11/combination-bottom-board-build-your-own.html" target="_blank">Combination Bottom Board</a><br />
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You can also download the SketchUp model here: <b><a href="https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3c12c3-c92f-499c-8ddb-96394883d270" target="_blank">Download</a></b>commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-37185115562456526602014-11-08T11:41:00.001-08:002014-11-08T15:44:08.433-08:00Build Your Own: 10 Frame Hive BodyMost Canadian beekeeping equipment is in 7/8th pine. This can create problems for us northern beekeepers as we spent time converting existing 3/4 dimensions. These plans are off existing equipment I received from a few different retailers. Consequently, I write down my plans on scrap paper and lose it; therefore I have decided to digitize it for myself and others. <b>Download the Sketchup model: <a href="https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u99648788-03bf-4aa9-b3e4-c3098ee9380f" target="_blank">Here</a></b><br />
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The most economical way to build your own boxes is to purchase 1x12 rough pine. If you purchase it from Home Depot, it will come at an actual 1 inch, therefore you will have to plane one side to 7/8ths. Most of the 1x12 from Home Hardware however comes already jointed one side, and planed to 7/8ths. Currently it is $1.15 a foot, and is sold in 12 foot lengths. Using these plans you should get 2 Deeps out of one 12 foot length @$13.80 (or $6.90 a box). <br />
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This method uses rabbit joints and are rather easily accomplished with a table saw, or router.<br />
<b>Click Images to Enlarge.</b> <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh59nfDLwl8Gft3b_BMnBoNWKQxY-KevaLOfXp6Syrk_WA2gASoBE3bKU3yGcA85H74w4K2C3yBQNYaOCbEIg_IxJGSPXXL241MbQ8vneoEejiA-pWxMVAGup4SkbFsW5u0Qij5OMIrrDE/s1600/Beekeeping+-+Deep+10+Frame+-+Step+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh59nfDLwl8Gft3b_BMnBoNWKQxY-KevaLOfXp6Syrk_WA2gASoBE3bKU3yGcA85H74w4K2C3yBQNYaOCbEIg_IxJGSPXXL241MbQ8vneoEejiA-pWxMVAGup4SkbFsW5u0Qij5OMIrrDE/s1600/Beekeeping+-+Deep+10+Frame+-+Step+1.jpg" height="196" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keep in mind the sawblade will remove 1/8th on each cut.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<h3>
Step One </h3>
Start by ripping down the 1x12 to 9 5/8ths. (keep the scrap for other hive projects.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAuxoPYtd-AFQgNSiRaffLBXy5MEEnDbm6RanDKjuFAJxGKTRjCT9T6q_hf4JOeguzYwPcAxkVxBX77a2x9VNI_iMbupLZZYv3aQYUN3PqVvuPkmTuawta6dAty86M2HZDhYrQ6k3-tA/s1600/Beekeeping+-+Deep+10+Frame+-+Step+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAuxoPYtd-AFQgNSiRaffLBXy5MEEnDbm6RanDKjuFAJxGKTRjCT9T6q_hf4JOeguzYwPcAxkVxBX77a2x9VNI_iMbupLZZYv3aQYUN3PqVvuPkmTuawta6dAty86M2HZDhYrQ6k3-tA/s1600/Beekeeping+-+Deep+10+Frame+-+Step+2.jpg" height="196" width="400" /></a></div>
<h3>
Step Two </h3>
The next step is to cut our various pieces. This most easily accomplished with a compound sliding mitre saw, however just about any saw will work.<br />
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<h3>
Step Three </h3>
Put the side pieces (19 1/8") away for now. The next part is the most complicated step of the whole project, creating our frame rest and rabbet joints to the box. I would recommend using either a dado blade on a table saw, or a router table. For the sake of simplicity however lets assume you are using a table saw with a regular blade. Set the blade depth to 3/8". Set your fence to 3/4", and double check with a tape measure to ensure that the distance from the fence to the outermost teeth on the saw are at 7/8". <i>If you set the fence to 7/8" your cut will be 1" due to the 1/8" thickness of the saw blade.</i><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHpqGuEhOO0PBu7mhmHpB98SP28Nrb3A9iE3ZPqtB3pT_xcyqSLTFiTQ8BJal88VAs-bj9gtpL_H6gH3hcv6gHwMTYl0ygzBtXoyIWaxM-_DcZteY4qfi2vYTzYz-Cf-MILWnLeVVLdMw/s1600/Beekeeping+-+Deep+10+Frame+-+Step+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHpqGuEhOO0PBu7mhmHpB98SP28Nrb3A9iE3ZPqtB3pT_xcyqSLTFiTQ8BJal88VAs-bj9gtpL_H6gH3hcv6gHwMTYl0ygzBtXoyIWaxM-_DcZteY4qfi2vYTzYz-Cf-MILWnLeVVLdMw/s1600/Beekeeping+-+Deep+10+Frame+-+Step+3.jpg" height="196" width="400" /></a><br />
Now using our front and back pieces (16 5/8") run both ends through.You should end up with this:<br />
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<h3>
Step Four </h3>
Sandwich the two pieces together to the cuts are facing each other. Adjust the fence so that 1/2" and confirm that the outside of the saw blade is at 5/8".<b>This cut is very important. </b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNedzrWlc6vgFoICTRbzkU0vi2yec33TrvoLyBsViRsl-Zbf0m-O9yQZpDElngSaGwGd7cQesWkNGwDF3m3kTgEd2Q8eAAYTpQOe7gzxPIJ5g5Ii9-pAZXG-xVAUVUtvqzpEFtAEuOVKc/s1600/Beekeeping+-+Deep+10+Frame+-+Step+41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNedzrWlc6vgFoICTRbzkU0vi2yec33TrvoLyBsViRsl-Zbf0m-O9yQZpDElngSaGwGd7cQesWkNGwDF3m3kTgEd2Q8eAAYTpQOe7gzxPIJ5g5Ii9-pAZXG-xVAUVUtvqzpEFtAEuOVKc/s1600/Beekeeping+-+Deep+10+Frame+-+Step+41.jpg" height="196" width="400" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Step Five </h3>
Set your saw blade depth to 7/8" and your fence to 1/4 (confirm the outside edge of the blade is 3/8"). Run the ends off. Repeat setting the blade depth to 5/8". You will end up with this: <br />
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<h3>
Step Six</h3>
Your box is basically done. The only thing left is handles. There are multiple styles of handles are are there ways to do it. Because of that reason I am going to leave handles out of this tutorial, as a quick internet search will yield you results. I did however mark the location on the main plan. Once you have handles completed all that is left is to assemble. Enjoy.commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-31698249436887672032014-11-05T16:07:00.001-08:002014-11-05T16:07:04.294-08:00Combination Bottom Board – Build Your Own (Out of Shit You Already Have!)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Yra5CibUYr77L1ql1LAU13TmMbkqLnqsbfT_bkAX-rNT4Yy1KmSDwUpPVRpueVugpLmKOk0iinKlniE6eIxgOEQKh47_jDuspY_Q2RYYj2VVBgWOvj7g1pRNmQ3XIou4k_oKpixBaVI/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Yra5CibUYr77L1ql1LAU13TmMbkqLnqsbfT_bkAX-rNT4Yy1KmSDwUpPVRpueVugpLmKOk0iinKlniE6eIxgOEQKh47_jDuspY_Q2RYYj2VVBgWOvj7g1pRNmQ3XIou4k_oKpixBaVI/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Those components look really familiar.</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I first started beekeeping I saw these really fancy
screened bottom boards with a fancy drawer underneath for monitoring mites.
They were expensive, they still are expensive. I am going to show you a quick
easy way to make your own: cheaper, and a shitload more useful.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Take a screened bottom board, and point the ¾ inch entrance
up. Place a solid bottom board underneath it with the 3/8 inch entrance up
pointing in the opposite direction. Then simply take an entrance reducer and
tack your mite monitoring sheet to it (in my case an old target).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz956mWP-3AaDOJ9cWU0J77xfGjq6DKODaRw-OUpLWMm38nkOnrvY2g8b8l1aZ6yEhtI9HXFGyXSNFN22fK7yGgo5JDh6FtfaXZJMER1bbmUrhj1stu7ysS6jiknt7Uldh3pLb2svOb8o/s1600/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz956mWP-3AaDOJ9cWU0J77xfGjq6DKODaRw-OUpLWMm38nkOnrvY2g8b8l1aZ6yEhtI9HXFGyXSNFN22fK7yGgo5JDh6FtfaXZJMER1bbmUrhj1stu7ysS6jiknt7Uldh3pLb2svOb8o/s1600/photo+2.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now you have a combination bottom board, a spare bottom
board if you need it, and an entrance reducer all tucked into one hive. All
made with what you probably had laying around anyway. Cheers.</div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-79138619312770264122014-10-20T09:36:00.001-07:002014-10-20T09:36:16.185-07:00I Don’t Have Mites, I Have Never Seen Them – and Why You Are Wrong<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
This is an all too common mentality. People (especially new
beekeepers), will: inspect their hive, look at the bees, not see mites, and
conclude they must not have mites. This is a huge mistake in logic.For example, in a fully crowded hive of 50,000 bees how hard
is it to find the queen? It’s the biggest one of the bunch! Should be easy
right? We all know this is not the case. You have to dig for her, and have a
very keen set of eyes to spot the queen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The threshold for mites is 7% infestation of phoretic varroa
mites (mites that are hatched and riding on bees). This translates to 3500
mites in a colony of 50,000 (you are already screwed at this point). Of these
50,000 many of those mites are on foragers which are typically out of the hive
during a daylight inspection. This does not even include the exponential amount
of mites living in the brood cells reproducing (which is arguably the more
important number). What if you have a 1% infestation rate in late spring? It is
very unlikely you will spot 1 mite per 100 bees, but that is enough to be well
over the amount of mites the bees can handle come fall if left unchecked!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A key point to
remember is that the relative infestation (percent, or mites per 100 bees) is
more important than total mite population—a large colony can handle more mites
than a small one. At much above a 2% infestation in spring, honey production
drops off severely. At much above 5% in fall, colony winter survival suffers
(although the fall “economic injury threshold” numbers by various authors range
from 1% to 11%) (Currie & Gatien 2006). We will return to percent
infestation, and economic injury levels in my next article.</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Unchecked, varroa can
really multiply! A 12-fold increase is typical in a short season consisting of
128 days of brood rearing (Martin 1998). However, its population can increase
100- to 300-fold if brood rearing is continuous! (Martin and Kemp 1997).</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">For more on Varroa
Population Dynamics: <a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/ipm-3-strategy-understanding-varroa-population-dynamics/">http://scientificbeekeeping.com/ipm-3-strategy-understanding-varroa-population-dynamics/</a></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If, a queen is so damn hard to find, how could you possibly
expect to find a tiny bug living on a tiny bee?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The general rule of thumb, is if you see a mite on a bee
chances are you are already infested. This is why it is so important to check
sticky boards, do sugar or ether rolls. Even that isn’t really effective
because it doesn’t measure mites in the reproductive cycle (in the cells). You
can try uncapping drone comb to get an idea about mites; or, worker cells in
the fall after drone rearing has ceased.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The only reliable visual cue is examining bees for DWV
(deformed wing virus), but by then your hive is already in the midst of
collapse. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hypothetically, if that hive makes it through the winter
that does not make them “survivor” bees. It simply means come spring when brood
rearing starts up again those bees are going to get more mites, much faster
than a “clean” colony. This is why many beekeepers treat in the spring and in
the fall, these are the most pivotal times for curbing mite reproduction. Let
us examine some common ways to deal with mites:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Mel Disselkoen developed an idea known as the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">MDA Splitter Method: <a href="http://www.mdasplitter.com/">http://www.mdasplitter.com</a></i> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This
method relies on the timely method of splitting (typically the summer
solstice), to create a brood less period while the bees create a new queen.
This creates a 28 day (give or take) period (dependent on mating), where the
mites cannot reproduce. It does not eliminate the mites but simply reduces them
to a level that is under the mite threshold. By staying under this threshold,
the bees can “handle” the mites going into winter. This is a more natural
approach, but is dependent on a few factors. It is extremely dependent on
timing. The idea is to interrupt the varroa mites reproductive cycle (x1.8/ 13
days) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>so that when the varroa mites are
in danger of crossing the threshold they are “knocked down”. They typically
cross that threshold when the queen slows down her laying in preparation for
fall, while the mite keeps breeding. When the new queen begins laying all those
mites with no brood to lay in rush for the first few cells of brood to
reproduce and essentially suffocate themselves.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I like this concept for two reasons: It’s a natural
Integrated Pest Management technique; as well as creates your surplus of
overwintered nucleus colonies. It is win/win, but I would be skeptical about
putting all my eggs in that basket. If you wish to remain treatment free, not a
bad idea.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What if you combined that method with an Oxalic Acid
treatment? Oxalic acid will kill 95% of the mites in a brood less colony. It is
still an organically accepted method. You would go into winter with almost no
mites.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sugar Dusting? Some have luck with it. It certainly works in
theory. Some people don’t have luck with it. What does it does? Well the hard
numbers say it will knock down<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1/6<sup>th</sup>
of your phoretic mite population (the ones on the bees). This means that about
16.7 percent of the mites won’t have a chance to reproduce (in theory). The
amount you sugar dust them, the more effective the results. Done weekly mites
can be kept at a sustainable level. Scientifically speaking, its efficacy is
contested. It will knock mites off but is it reliable enough to be your only “treatment
method”?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Drone Comb? Its works, but does it work for you? Mites are
naturally attracted to drone comb and prefer to reproduce in it. The idea is
place drone comb in the hive, the queen lays in it, the mites go into the drone
cells, and the cell is capped. The beekeeper then removes the drone comb
exactly four weeks later and kills the cells (heating, freezing, uncapping,
etc) and kills the mites while still in a reproductive state. Some studies show
through the course of a season this can reduce mite populations by 25%. How
could this possibly be a bad idea? Well that is dependent on the type of
beekeeper you are. If you forget to remove the drone comb, you will actually be
increasing your mite load. So this method demands timely vigilance akin to
queen breeding. Are you going to want to lift all those boxes of honey off
later in the season to remove those combs? It is a great deal of fucking weight!
Are you breeding queens, or making splits? You might want those drones for your
queens to mate with!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">For more info on drone
trapping/sugar dusting check: <a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/fighting-varroa-biotechnical-tactics-ii/">http://scientificbeekeeping.com/fighting-varroa-biotechnical-tactics-ii/</a></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What about screened bottom boards? Don’t the mites fall
through the screen and reduce their population? Think again, despite being a
hopeful effort many scientific studies concluded that it does nothing for mite
population. Most of the mites that fall through the screen are old, sick, or
injured –they were going to die anyway. It is still marketed as reducing varroa
population, and I suppose you still trust that shady used cars salesman, right?
It is however a way to get an idea about your mite population. By an idea I
mean after a treatment (we already discovered natural drop off isn’t that
reliable), using powdered sugar, acids, miticides, etc. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ether/Alcohol/Sugar rolls are a slightly more reliable
method of getting a number of phoretic mite counts. If in 100 bees, you find
six mites you are under the threshold right at six percent right? Wrong. Once
again, if you have 6 percent phoretic mite infestation that means there are 1.8
times that in the brood cells. In 1-15 days you’ll be at 6.8 percent phoretic
mites. In 15 days you will be well over that 7 percent threshold. The cycle
continues.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Let’s say you can’t see any mites so you don’t bother doing
anything about them. We can assume you probably have mites, we all have them, don’t
be ashamed it is just part of beekeeping nowadays. But you chose to be
ignorant, not treat, or do anything about them. What are some likely outcomes?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You notice one hive is weak in the fall (could be varroa),
so you combine it with another hive to bump it up for winter –What you just did
was introduce a shitload of mites into a brood rich colony essentially
sacrificing two hives instead of one.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You don’t notice that hive is weak in the fall –that hive
gets robbed out and the phoretic mites jump onto the robbing bees and infest
those colonies. That hive probably dies, and the mite population grows in the hives
doing the robbing. Or you inspect it, see its weak, and combine it with the
first possible solution.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That hive dies overwinter –This is actually the second best
outcome, as it does not spread it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That hive makes it over the winter –This hive begins brood
rearing in the spring and will reach their mite threshold very quickly, as well
as being succumbed to many varroa related illnesses. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You do treat –The hive will not die from varroa, or varroa
related illnesses (could still starve, or fail to overwinter). However the
remaining mites that live are the ones that are resistant to that treatment,
and will be the ones breeding in the spring. Over time that treatment might not
be as effective. This has been demonstrated with the plethora of different mite
applications on the market, the mites will build a resistance to it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As a result, we can conclude with this: Just because you can’t
see mites does not mean you do not have them; If you do see mites you are
probably close to your threshold limit; there are many methods of trying to
stay under this threshold limit; the math is confusing; and we are damned if we
do, and we are damned if we don’t. </div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-24994493151169755992014-03-20T09:52:00.001-07:002014-03-20T09:58:15.942-07:00Breeder Queen Selection<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<h1>
</h1>
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When endeavouring on such as a quest as varroa resistant bee
stock there must be a selection of criteria on which to develop a breeding
program. Instead of reinventing the wheel, lets take the case of a successful bee
breeder who undertook such a task –Brother Adam. Brother Adam has a series of
criteria in which to determine which candidates were acceptable for breeding
purposes:</div>
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<br /></div>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Primary</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Primary qualities are those qualities essential for
any maximum honey production.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Fecundity - maintaining at least 9 frames of brood
May - July</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Foraging zeal - a boundless capacity for foraging
work, close inbreeding to intensify this quality can be counterproductive.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Resistance to disease</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Disinclination to swarm</span></li>
</ul>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Secondary</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Longevity</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Wing-power</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Keen sense of smell</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Defensive characteristics</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Hardiness and ability to overwinter</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Spring development</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Thrift</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Instinct of self-provisioning</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Arrangement of honey stores</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Wax production and comb building</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Gathering of pollen</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Tongue-reach</span></li>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Tertiary</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Good temper</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Calm behaviour</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Disinclination to </span><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">propolize</span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">No brace combs</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Cleanliness</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Honey capping</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Sense of orientation</span></li>
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His criteria is based on both economical, survival, and a
keen sense of observation only acquired by a lifetime spent with bees. Such an
in depth criteria is not totally necessary for my purposes but rather lays a
frame work. Also, further research has indicated that some of these criteria’s
may or may not be as important as once thought. Some are purely for practical
purposes.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One benefit of living in such a cold climate is that many of
these factors will be taken care of simply by overwintering. Overwintering
should be the main criteria, as you cannot breed from dead bees. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Disease resistance is also a factor as bees are now the host
to an array of diseases, parasites, virus, and fungi’s. Hygienic behaviour can
take care of a majority of these problems including foulbrood, Chalkbrood, and
other brood related illnesses. Mites are the largest problem, and although
hygienic and VSH bees will combat them they are not there yet. Some bees also
seem to have a tolerance for mite loads which is not totally understood. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Honey gathering I feel is important economical speaking –it’s
the main reason bees are kept. This is based on many facets both inherent in
the bee, and manipulated by the beekeeper. The bees fecundity (the rearing of
brood) creates more bees and therefore more honey. If those bees are Italian in
origin it was also allow them to keep a large cluster through the winter.
Foraging zeal is also important but can be caused by several things: breed, Russians
are known for not keeping additional stores; demoralization; colony strength;
weather conditions; spring buildup, to take advantage of early nectar sources. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Excessive swarming may be breed related, and
is a factor for selection. It is also an important beekeeper manipulation. The
cause of the swarming must be established before any potential breeder is ruled
out.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Many other facets that Brother Adam outlines is simply underscores
of these three things. Lets evaluate and eliminate those other factors. This
list is quite reminiscent of Michael Palmer’s criteria. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Gentleness is extremely important –no one wants to fight
with their bees.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Propolis has been discovered to be the bee’s immune system.
By breeding this out we are essentially making our bees more susceptible to
diseases. For this reason I am not only striking this from the list, but actually
encouraging it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Everything else seems to be rather superficial, or simply to
hard to really account for.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This leaves us with our criteria:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Overwinter Ability: survives tough winters, maintains a
tight cluster, cluster moves to food stores, does not require a unreasonable
amount of fall feed.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Disease Resistance: Hygienic/VSH (measure in the 75+
percentile), tracheal mite resistance (as observed with a dissection
microscope), nosema resistant (tested with a microscope), shows survival
instincts.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Honey Production: Produces good yields, takes nectar
gathering flights during lower spring temperatures.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Gentleness: Does not become unreasonably angry during
inspections, can wear a veil only except during honey harvest. Gentle on the
comb (does not get too nervous). Some bees are known for aggressive F1 crossing
(Buckfast) and that will also be accounted for. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Propolis: Produces propolis, seals hive tight for the
winter, builds own entrance reducer.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In order to quantify these requirements a metric must be
made. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Overwintering: PASS / FAIL</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Disease Resistance: </div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Hygienic: Liquid Nitrogen Test</li>
<li>Mite Count: Sticky board, Sugar Roll</li>
<li>Microscopy: Trachael mite, Nosema Spores</li>
<li>General Survivability/Resistance</li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Honey Production: </div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Amount of honey produced relative to other
similar sized colonies</li>
<li>Amount of feed consumed relative to honey
produced</li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Gentleness: PASS / FAIL</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Propolis: PASS / FAIL</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Because this breeding program will be conducted in a
modified treatment free regime, the pressures on the bees will be enormous.
However to mitigate mite drift, and the spread of diseases susceptible colonies
will be treated with Oxalic Acid and be moved to a non-treatment free apiary
(see previous posts). Those combs will be decontaminated over a cycle (wax/honey
removed and sold to treatment beekeepers) and reinstituted. Bees will be used
for populating dead outs, nucs, mating nucs. Queens will be disposed of, unless
they prove other desirable qualities or were under performing due to extreme
circumstances or keeper error. For economic purposes the "live and let die" method does not seem advantageous, nor reasonable for a growing apiary. Those bees which are not performing but do not appear to need treatment will be allowed to live through a winter and/or requeened. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Queens will be procured from many sources deemed acceptable,
both locally and internationally. Ontario has many good breeders of stock
including hygienic, Buckfast, Russian, etc. Locally acclimated bees are known
for their abilities. Some stock is to be gotten from US sources such as
Minnesota VSH hygienics, as well as any promising queens. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The first order of business will be injecting hygienic
genetics, and from those colonies demonstrating good survival (cant breed from
dead bees). It will take years to develop these bees.</div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-7268527009661511372014-03-09T10:13:00.000-07:002014-03-09T10:13:20.511-07:00Deadout Autopsy #1<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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So pulled one hive apart to inspect the dead out and figure
out what went wrong. First box, full of honey probably 60+lbs plus a ton of granulated
sugar on top of that –very few bees with their heads in cells. This pretty much
rules out a starvation theory, and now I have to delve deeper. </div>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6qzxbV-TDqYa9l4oHWTpTEAnZdTsRbZ2ml0O47bCXi2XPlNMIiT2aw3630FGVRVhbqr5Ufg8zZPeGkO-VVgap5s19mpuv8RAXoj1ieH6hg7GmsseQVX4ReRkq9jqdwcX64y4xs0WLWoY/s1600/IMG_0487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6qzxbV-TDqYa9l4oHWTpTEAnZdTsRbZ2ml0O47bCXi2XPlNMIiT2aw3630FGVRVhbqr5Ufg8zZPeGkO-VVgap5s19mpuv8RAXoj1ieH6hg7GmsseQVX4ReRkq9jqdwcX64y4xs0WLWoY/s1600/IMG_0487.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clearly a great deal of stores left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Upon closer
examination and looking through dead bees we can find the culprit. Mites! The
mites will slowly kill off the bees reducing the size of the cluster and give
them a host of viral problems. As the cluster gets smaller it makes it very
difficult for the bees to maintain heat. Only small clusters will die out from
cold/starvation because they simply cannot rear brood or move to honey stores.<br />
<br />
You can imagine, if the few dead bees clinging to the combs had two visible signs of mites, what the dead ones on the bottom boards must of had.<br />
<br /></div>
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Result: Varroa killed the bees!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-D2t4F33SvqsVSiuNs_VbeFW3Pe46AgLKqfrWhjizgtncAlTBkqsXYq2jaF-qb-KRW8WupsqXVrASBLsooGFauuxKdXnBLjPgN0FxRCJRK_hjLkLiVdWyczDR2KCWDEQHs4GnJPnGkKs/s1600/IMG_0490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-D2t4F33SvqsVSiuNs_VbeFW3Pe46AgLKqfrWhjizgtncAlTBkqsXYq2jaF-qb-KRW8WupsqXVrASBLsooGFauuxKdXnBLjPgN0FxRCJRK_hjLkLiVdWyczDR2KCWDEQHs4GnJPnGkKs/s1600/IMG_0490.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>It is a sad reality of not treating bees!<br />
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhSV0RRWFfXKIo-2S9q5m8zCY78FTT9JA4-ToxMeyXpufeC1GoueQ-bI_VkhlEmQas1QiRYlxpZ4Z1bPBqukUusmhp1sohU537Xw-9YwU10HYCGx2BLhBceXejXRjKqCpROs4JpPfB9QI/s1600/IMG_0491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhSV0RRWFfXKIo-2S9q5m8zCY78FTT9JA4-ToxMeyXpufeC1GoueQ-bI_VkhlEmQas1QiRYlxpZ4Z1bPBqukUusmhp1sohU537Xw-9YwU10HYCGx2BLhBceXejXRjKqCpROs4JpPfB9QI/s1600/IMG_0491.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-48873448282361780562014-01-13T14:12:00.001-08:002014-01-13T14:12:58.307-08:00Overwintering Experiment – Winter 2013 <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Searching on the internet there is a multitude of
overwintering beehives. Most of it is completely inappropriate to harsh
Canadian winters. As a new beekeeper I was rather confused and worried about
overwintering options –I didn’t want to lose more bees then I ought to. In
addition to these difficulties this autumn wreaked havoc; the goldenrod bloom
never came for their winter stores, and due to the unusually warm autumn any
honey left on for winter stores was quickly used up. By the time this was
realized, it was becoming too cold for syrup so emergency dry sugar feeding was
the only option.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.backyardbees.ca/files/winteringbeaverlodge.pdf"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Biology andManagement of Colonies in Winter</i></a>, by Adony Melathopoulos contains a great
deal of information regarding the overwintering of bees in very cold climate
(Beaverlodge – Alberta, coincidently where my bees genetics began with work by
TI Szabo). </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Michael Palmer has some great advice on wintering colonies
on his presentation <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFanJbaigM4">Keeping Bees inFrozen North America</a>.</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But, all this information was “after the fact” for me so I
setup a short experiment. All the hives save one very small colony (late swarm
catch) and one large colony (best producer) were roughly similar sized
clusters. All had very little honey left and are surviving off emergency
granulated sugar feeding.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Screen Bottom Board
vs. Solid Bottom Board</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is very easy to imagine to ourselves that bees get cold.
It is another example of how we as humans assume that because we are cold, that
the bees are as well. This is a completely false notion. Bees are affected by
temperature in the sense that they must keep their cluster at a constant 32-36
degrees Celsius. This in turn affects their metabolic rate, and how much they
need to consume in calories to produce that heat. At 5 degrees Celsius bees use
the least amount of honey, steadily increasing the cold it gets. Likewise, any
warmer will trigger brood rearing which will also use up a great amount of
honey. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I placed three colonies on screen bottom boards, and the
rest on solid to see if the open SBB would have a negative effect on those
hives. In late December I had checked on them. The SBB did not seem to
contribute any negative aspects on any of the three hives. Conversely, the ones
with SBB looked to be drier. The solid bottom boards however had remnants of
newspaper, sugar, and dead bees that had grown mouldy, whereas the same
detritus found on the SBB hives was not mouldy. This indicates that although
slanted forward to minimize moisture in the hive it was still an issue. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
They are currently still on SBB, and Solid Bottom boards as
they were, I do not feel that it affects the hives one way or the other.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Wrapped vs Unwrapped</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wrapping with tar paper (roofing felt), worth the effort?
Not initially part of my experiment, but after running out of light while
wrapping I had to call it quits, and consequently left some hives unwrapped. I
went with it to observe possible differences. Tar paper gives a moderate amount
of protection to the hive, prevents some drafts, but is primarily for solar
gain. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I went to check the hives in late December, we had
above zero temperatures. I opened the entrance reducers to clean out debris,
and dead bees from the bottom boards. I was surprised to see that hives with
tar paper (with or without solid bottom boards) were able to take a cleansing
flight. Those without tar paper did not. It goes without saying that cleansing
flights are very important for the health of the colony, those without tar
paper were later wrapped in hopes that they would get a cleansing flight the
next warm day –which they did.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">On Entrance Reducers</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I am not bold enough as of yet to completely remove entrance
reducers from overwintering colonies. Michael Palmer uses 1/4inch hardware
cloth (wire mesh), to protect from mice entering the hives, but is otherwise
wide open. What I can tell you is use the largest opening. Ventilation is the
most important aspect of overwinter, and condensation equals dead outs. There
is noticeably more moisture in hives using the smallest entrance reducer
opening. In addition turn the entrance reducer upside down, and face the entrance
up. This was a tip given to me by a friend. It prevents the entrance from
getting clogged up from dead bees, which in turn prevents them from taking a
cleansing flight.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>It is currently January 13, 2014. All hives are currently still alive. This page will be updated as the experiment of SBB vs Solid continues, and if any long term effects are observed. All hives save one, are clustered at the top super eating granulated sugar. Fingers crossed.</i> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-85438220191085610732014-01-10T23:29:00.000-08:002014-01-10T23:29:20.140-08:00Queen Rearing in the Sustainable Apiary<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/R7tinVIuBJ8" width="480"></iframe><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
The other element of the equation is making the queens that
go into those nucleus colonies. This was probably the hardest of the
presentations to follow, it is so packed with information and numbers it could
make your head spin. To say it was hard to follow is not fair, Palmer did an
amazing job and would make an even better teacher, the hardest part was with
me. I constantly had to rewind to write down those numbers and try to get it
exactly right. In fact half the reason I am writing this is so I won’t have to
think about it again!</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The reasons for rearing your own queens is plenty: you can
breed for qualities you are looking for in your bees; they are acclimatized to
your locale; you aren’t buying queens; etc. Everyone should be making their own
queens. Without going into the qualities you look for in bees, and sticking to
the Michael Palmer method, let’s get to it!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bees will naturally raise queens under three circumstances:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Emergency</b> - OK<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bees are suddenly queenless and will take larvae in a worker
cell, turn that cell into a queen cell and feed it royal jelly. The larvae are
of various age, they will not be of top quality. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Supercedure</b> - BETTER</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The bees feel as though their queen is failing, builder
queen cells, and prompt the queen to lay in them. These queens are raised by
the bees with the initial intention of creating a new queen, feeding as much
royal jelly as is required. It will produce a quality queen, but not many of
them. This can be prompted by injuring the queen. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Swarming</b> - BEST</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When the bees decide to swarm, they create many queen cells
that the queen lays in. They are fed as much royal jelly as they need. This
usually takes place in the spring during a nectar flow, so they receive the
best nutrition, and have the most nurse bees to look after the developing
queens. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Relying on natural methods however, are neither reliable,
nor practical for the beekeeper wishing to produce a number of queens. However,
any good beekeeper must imitate the bees in order to produce the best results.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Nowadays, most queen
cells are produced using the Queenless Cell Starter / Queenright Cell Finisher
method. There is a great deal of literature and videos available explaining
this method, however I will not delve into it. Michael Palmer believes this
method is not sustainable because you must tap into the resources of your honey
production colonies to do so.</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">BROTHER ADAMS CELL
BUILDING METHOD</b></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Palmer and Webster utilize many of Brother Adams principals;
however they did not realize it at the time. The method that Michael Palmer uses
is simply a deviation of Brother Adams method. It capitalizes on both the
emergency queen building response, as well as the swarm cell building response;
this should create the best possible cells.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Firstly a strong colony is needed, containing 9-12 frames of
brood. A queen excluder is then put on the hive as well as another hive body
contained sealed brood harvested from elsewhere. When the sealed brood hatches
the colony’s nurse bee population will be at a maximum. The hive is now crowded
creating swarming conditions, pollen/nectar are coming in –the best possible
time for harvesting.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">MICHAEL PALMERS CELL
BUILDING METHOD</b></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Breeder Queen
Selection</b></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Use the best of what you have available. The breeder queen
is kept in a box containing vertical queen excluders. Frames can be added in to
accurately control the age of the larvae. Ideally you’re larvae should be
around 12 hours old. His criteria selected is quite simple: wintering, does the
hive winter well, and keep a tight cluster; disease, are they prone to disease
and if so how are the dealing with it?; temper, goes without saying; honey
production, are they good producers?; lastly, how much sugar do they consume
during the winter with a noticeable comparison to how much honey they produced (i.e.
A colony that produced 100lbs, but had to be fed 20lbs of syrup could be seen
inferior to a hive that produced 70lb of honey but only needed fed 10lbs). </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 1</b></h4>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Harvest frames of sealed brood from over
wintered nucleus colonies, place on strong colony over a queen excluder.</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>The hive is setup thus: The area below the queen
excluder contains 2 deeps, and 1 medium as the brood nest, as well as a medium
of honey on top of that. On top of the queen excluder is another medium box of
honey, and the box of sealed brood above that.</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>The overwintered nucleus colonies are 4 frames
stacked 3 high; giving a total of 12 frames per nucleus colony. He can harvest
1-2 frames from each for populating cell builders with nurse bees. This also
prevents the nucleus colonies from swarming by creating additional room for the
queen to lay in.</li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 10</b></h4>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Check the cell builder for any queen cells, all
must be destroyed. Above the excluder could contain emergency cells, and below
the excluder could contain swarm cells.</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>The nurse bees have hatched out.</li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 11 – Morning
(Cell Builder Prep)</span></b></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> <b>
</b></span></span></span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Remove
queenless section (above excluder) from the queenright section (below
excluder). Turn the queenright selection 180 degrees and move back, providing
it with its over top cover, bottom board, etc. The queenless section is then
placed in the original spot that the hive was located. Put the honey super of
the queenless section on the bottom (it was there anyway), to insulate as well
as simulate honey flow conditions. </span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Check the
hive to ensure there are no queen cells, or open brood in which the hive could
create them.</span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Using a
shaker box (a deep with a queen excluder nailed to the bottom of it), to shake
additional nurse bees into the queenless hive. Any queens will be caught by the
excluder and can be put back in their original hive.</span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">A frame
of pollen is put into the space next to where the grafts will go. Palmer traps
his own pollen, freezes it, and gently presses it into a frame of empty drawn
comb.</span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span></b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Feed 1:1
sugar syrup</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l7 level1 lfo7; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 11 – Afternoon (Grafts)</span></b></h4>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l3 level1 lfo8; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </span></b></div>
<ul>
<li><b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The
queenless section is now hopelessly queenless and will accept your grafts.</span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Add
grafts placing them directly beside your comb of pollen</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 16 (Cells are
sealed)</span></b></h4>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo9; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </span></b></div>
<ul>
<li><b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Remove
the top feeder</span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"> <span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span></b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Set the
cell builder in its original configuration, in the original location, with the
queen excluder.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 21 (Cells are
done)</span></b></h4>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l9 level1 lfo10; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </span></b></div>
<ul>
<li><b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Keep
cells warm, and put one each in a mating nucleus.</span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"> <span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span></b><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Check the
cell building colony for any queen cells, and to make sure there is still a laying
queen.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">…</span></b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i>Rinse and repeat</i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The benefits of this
system are many. Firstly, you are starting your cells in an emergency
condition, and then finishing them in a swarming condition. Secondly, you are
maximizing the amount of nurse bees, which maximizes the amount of royal jelly
being fed to the developing queens –better quality queen. You are not robbing
resources from your production colonies, you are harvesting brood from nucleus
colonies that would otherwise swarm from overcrowding. This system can be used
repeatedly whereas traditional systems would work once and then the hives
resources to make good queens would be depleted. Using this method Palmer can produce
(from 35 cell builders): 1500 Queens, and 2 tons of honey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 36 – 41</span></b></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Queens can be checked
for laying, marked and caught.</span></li>
<li><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Add new queen cell</span></li>
<li><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">On the last (third
round) of queen rearing, catch only half the queens, remove dividers to turn
queen castle (2 frame by 4 mating nucs) into Palmer's conventional nucleus
colony (4 frame by 2 nucs) for overwintering.</span></li>
<li><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">If the queen is
allowed to lay longer than the 16 days, the mating nuc can become
overpopulated. This can create swarming conditions as well as make it harder to
find/catch the queen.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxZMEFiEpqFezwi3li8hoFmZforR0hcMLfk2__iBniKDW1Ym00jqyQEahsJTQ8m8_eDiV0NUUfSk4VL3jIv5txrez-NB2Ed2wnz38Sk7rrpi8XzoqrbIMjdpCZZtlZJpP2ygcOTQvd2HA/s1600/MP+cell+builder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxZMEFiEpqFezwi3li8hoFmZforR0hcMLfk2__iBniKDW1Ym00jqyQEahsJTQ8m8_eDiV0NUUfSk4VL3jIv5txrez-NB2Ed2wnz38Sk7rrpi8XzoqrbIMjdpCZZtlZJpP2ygcOTQvd2HA/s1600/MP+cell+builder.jpg" height="640" width="346" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Palmer uses a
rotational system where he is producing queens every four days. He gets three
rounds out of each group every season. I created a spreadsheet to illustrate this,
as it was hard to visualize myself.</span><br />
<br /></div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-57732889886482075462014-01-10T23:25:00.002-08:002014-01-10T23:25:48.414-08:00The Sustainable Apiary by Mike Palmer<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/nznzpiWEI8A" width="480"></iframe><br />
<br />
Recently Mr. Palmer was invited to do a series of talks at
the National Honey Show in England. Graciously for us these presentations were
filmed and made available to everyone. Previously, there was an earlier video for
the sustainable apiary which is also worth the watch. Here and there you might
find a small clip of Michael Palmer discussing a technique, or giving a short
explanation about how he does something. It is not long till you figure out
“this man knows what he is talking about”<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had a great deal of questions about his system that I
scoured Internet forums for answers to, even asking Palmer himself –which he
was more than happy to answer. His operation is big, it’s involved, and during
the season it is running. This can make it a little difficult for the novice
beekeeper to catch on to. I had watched all these videos a multitude of times,
and it was not until I sat down with a notebook, constantly rewinding I started
to be able to piece it all together.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To understand how this works, you must understand the ‘why’.
Today beekeepers experience winter losses, that in the spring they replace by
making splits, and ordering packages/queens. The demands of pollination has significantly
increased the price of these packages, as well as lowered the quality.
Consequently this means that if you are buying these packages to replace your
stock you are probably just scraping by financially.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now what if we could make our own nucleus colonies, our own
queens, which are adapted to your climate, and of better quality to replace our
stocks or use for increases for FREE (ok not free, but close). All of a sudden
you aren’t buying early packages and queens from stocks that are not adapted to
your climate, that are more likely to overwinter. Get off the package
treadmill! Bees’ dying does not make for fun beekeeping, its heart breaking,
and its costly –no one wins!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here comes Michael Palmer, showing us the way. He’s the
first to admit this is not his idea. Kirk Webster introduced him to the idea of
overwintering nucs. Once he started digging a little deeper, low and behold
Brother Adam, and a host of old-timers were doing it as well. This is not a new
idea!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">This can appeal to me!
In Ontario, we can’t order packages. The only way to replace your bees is to
split them, or buy nucleus colonies. With all the bees dying in Ontario this
has driven the prices of nucleus colonies up to almost $200. In northern
Vermont (where Michael Palmers apiary is,) they experience the same harsh
winters we do. I can’t afford to replace 50% of my bees each year at $200 bucks
a nuc; but I can afford to try and follow in the footstep of someone who just
frankly know better (and more).</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sustainability is about having a system that sustains
itself, and the parts of that system are interconnected and sustain other parts
in that system. Recognizing this Palmer has broken this down into three parts:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
NUCLEUS COLONIES – PRODUCTION COLONIES – QUEEN REARING
COLONIES</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The nucleus colonies can become your production colonies,
they can boost your production colonies, they can make new nucleus colonies,
they are “…nothing more than a queen with support staff,” for requeening. The
production colonies are there to make honey, isn’t beekeeping all about making
honey? Queen Rearing colonies supply the queens to your nucleus colonies, or
can be sold.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-weight: normal;">OVERWINTERED NUCLEUS COLONIES – the foundation of sustainable beekeeping.</span></b></span></h3>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l8 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>What can you do with an overwinter nucleus
colony?</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Replace winter losses</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Use the queens from those colonies to requeen
your weak colonies, or failing queens</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Increase the amount of colonies you have</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Sell them for extra income</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Use the extra frames of brood from those
colonies to boost production colonies, or set up cell builders.</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Use them to make the nucs that you plan to over
winter next year</li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have never run into an experienced beekeeper that will
tell you not to bother having a nuc box laying around. Find a swarm? You have a
swarm box. Find a swarm cell? Make a new nuc. Everyone should have a nuc box.
Smart people will have more!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are many nuc boxes on the market made out of any
conceivable material. Traditionally there are five frame wooden nuc boxes, they
are the norm. Palmer uses one 10 frame deep divided into half, with separate
inner covers. When they get bigger he puts a little four frame super on top of
that. The benefits of this are that in the winter although divided the bees
form one cluster in the middle (clinging to the dividing board). In a forum
post when asked “why not five frame nuc boxes,” I remember he replied “think
tippy”. Fair enough.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The important part is the concept of the nucleus colony, not
the box you put it in.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3 class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">SPRING</b></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Traditionally in spring, beekeepers will make early splits
to counter their winter losses. It’s more than common, I never questioned it.
Palmer questioned it. His argument is that those hives are your production
colonies by splitting; they never build up to where they could have been. Don’t
split, use your overwintered nucs to replaces your losses, or increases.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In his presentations he stresses, do not weaken the
prosperous colonies that are doing well. Make your nucleus colonies from
non-productive colonies.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Identify the weak non-productive colony</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Put: 2 frames of brood, 1 frame of honey, 1
empty frame in each nuc box</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Move to new location</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Add Queen or Queen Cell</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Check 10 days later</li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lets do the math, we
lose one weak colony $300 replacement value, and we gain four nucleus colonies
$760. If we have to buy four queens those nucs costs us $120, or $48 in queen
cells. We could let them raise their own queens, could be risky, and we lose
out on one month of production. This is why queen rearing is an important
concept in this system. These nucleus colonies can go on to make more nucs as
well.</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">MANAGING NUCLEUS
COLONIES</b></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are a few issues with managing nucleus colonies. They
have a reputation for building up fast, which can cause them to swarm or
abscond. The important concept here is that you need to give them room to
expand you can counter this by:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Removing a frame of brood to start a new nucleus
colony, or boost a colony (BROOD FACTORY).</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>In his double nuc system, you could put a queen
excluder on, and a honey super above they can fill.</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Expand to single colony</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Put in foundation for them to draw out
(FOUNDATION FACTORY).</li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
He has several resourceful uses for nucleus colonies. One
such concept is the bee bomb. Using the nucleus colonies as a brood factory, he
inspects the nuc yard removing 1-2 frames of sealed brood from each nuc until
he has a box worth. He then takes this box of sealed brood and places it on a
production colony that he feels could use the extra work force. In 1-12 days
that colony will be overflowing with nurse bees. When building cell builders he
uses a similar concept which will be addressed later.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h4 class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">50 OVERWINTERED NUCS</b></h4>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span> </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
May 9 – Jun 19 – Harvests 245 frames of brood,
to populated 35 Cell Builders</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>June 16 – July 20 – Harvests enough brood to
make 330 Nucleus Colonies to Overwinter</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 72.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l1 level2 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Harvests 900 frames of brood in total from 50
overwintered nucs</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For overwintering he simply feeds them 1-2 gallons of sugar
syrup. See you next spring. You will notice the astonishing amount of
productivity he can get from 50 nucleus colonies. Palmer does produce 330 nucs
to overwinter, and withholds sale of 50 for use in the sustainable apiary
model. Understanding the importance of the nucs is one part of the cyclical
equation.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-3792636855342912572014-01-08T17:22:00.001-08:002014-01-08T22:37:37.531-08:00An Option Towards Developing Treatment-Free Bees<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]-->Being a treatment-free beekeeper is a marathon, not a
sprint. First you must learn how to keep bees, and keep them alive. Secondly,
you must acquire the genetics that are resistant, or otherwise cope with the
varroa mite. This second option can take a great deal of time. Many of the “successful”
treatment-free beekeepers have been breeding their own stock for thirty years
or better. It is possible to get their stock, but it is unlikely Dee Lusby’s or
Michael Bush’s bees will survive a tough Canadian winter –if we even could
import their stock, which we cannot. Finding survivor bees is actually the easy
part of the equation. If they survive winter you don’t really have a choice but
to breed from the bees that survive. Mites however, are not that easy.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Many people ascribe to the “Live, and let Die,” Bond
philosophy of beekeeping. Let nature take its course of natural selection and
what you are left with are your survivor stock. The largest problem with this
philosophy is that you must ask yourself “Where do the mites go?” Weak colonies
or dead outs will simply get robbed out, and the robbing bees will take them
back to their parent colony. Perhaps that colony was a survivor stock until those
robber bees brought back a disproportionate amount of mites, and will now also
die because they have exceeded their mite threshold</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“A key point to
remember is that the relative infestation (percent, or mites per 100 bees) is
more important than total mite population—a large colony can handle more mites
than a small one. At much above a 2% infestation in spring, honey production
drops off severely. At much above 5% in fall, colony winter survival suffers
(although the fall “economic injury threshold” numbers by various authors range
from 1% to 11%) (Currie & Gatien 2006). “</i> (Randy Oliver, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><u>IPM 3 Fighting Varroa 3: Strategy –
Understanding Varroa Population Dynamics</u>)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This method has a great deal of risk; you could end up with
no bees at all! Also, it does not really make for a good business model in the
years that it takes to get to that point.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Another method is to treat your bees every spring and fall,
do mite counts and breed from the bees with the lowest mite counts. This method
gives the bees a bit of a crutch; are they surviving because of the treatment,
or genetics? There is also not a 100% they will survive despite the treatments.
Testing for hygienic behaviour can also be a key marker for your breeding
selection. Hygienic behaviour also reduces other diseases like American
Foulbrood, and Chalkbrood.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
"<i>...100% of the non-hygienic colonies that were challenged
developed clinical symptoms, and only one recovered. All non-hygienic colonies
had symptoms of naturally occurring chalkbrood disease (Ascosphaera apis) throughout
both summers. In contrast 33% of the hygienic colonies developed clinical symptoms
of chalkbrood after they were challenged with American foulbrood, but all recovered.
The diseased non-hygienic colonies produced significantly less honey than the
hygienic colonies. The purpose is then to develop a system creating a balance
between two opposing ideologies: sustain a sound productive apiary whilst
developing mite tolerant survivor stock; as well as keeping true to a more
natural method of beekeeping.</i>" (Spivak, Reuter, <span class="st"><u>Resistance to American foulbrood disease by honey bee colonies (Apis mellifera</u><wbr></wbr><u>) bred for hygienic behavior</u>)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My proposal is this. Do not treat your bees prophylactically;
let them have normal and acceptable pressures on them at all times. However, if
a hive is in danger of mite related collapse treat it as to not contaminate the
hives around it. Keeping chemical contaminated comb, honey and stock out of your
developing resources is important. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
How do we approach this?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is a hive in danger of collapse, being robbed out and
spreading mites. Treat it with an organic acid, mark the hive body and all the
frames so that you know those hives have been exposed to this chemical. Once
the mites have been ‘knocked down’ let it overwinter. If it successfully
overwinters, split that hive up into nucleus colonies giving each a queen cell
from the breeding survivor stock. A queen cell as opposed to a laying queen is
important; it allows a short brood break to reduce the mite population, and
give the new queen a chance to prove herself. Swarm cells in the spring should
be rather easy to find. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The marked frames (contaminated,) are then pulled as time
will allow and the wax is rendered. That wax is then put in a separate stock
from your uncontaminated wax and used for purposes other than foundation. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What we will have accomplished is: </div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>We have not endangered our existing hives by
allowing them to rob out the infested hive</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>We have created nucleus colonies from a hive
that would have otherwise died</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>We have perpetuated the genetics of our survivor
stock</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>We have isolated any chemical contaminates from
our treatment-free operation</li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
How can we model this into our existing apiary management?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Firstly, you have to monitor for mites. Whether it is a sticky
board, an alcohol shake, it doesn’t matter. You need a baseline to know which
of your hives have a mite problem and which don’t. Which are candidates for
breeder stock, and which hives are going to need help?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Secondly, hygienic testing; either begin testing for hygienic behavior or buy bees from breeders who are selecting for these traits and
breed from them.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Fall I believe may be the best time for integration: the
mite populations are at their peak, struggling hives will be apparent, and
winter is coming (had to throw the Games of Thrones reference in there). You
take your surplus honey off. At this point we are still treatment-free. We
isolate which hives are over their mite threshold and apply a treatment. Those
hives/frames are clearly marked, I am thinking green paint marker for plastic
frames, or green thumb tacks (green kind of has a chemical connotation to it).
Feed and maintain those hives as regular and let them overwinter.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Spring has come. Your non survivor stock has died through
the great selector –winter. If your isolated hives have survived split them
into as many nucleus colonies as you can, giving each brood, honey, and feed.
Acquire queen cells by either: harvesting from survivor stock, or buying new
genetics from a breeder. If you let them raise their own queen, you will simply
be perpetuating unwanted genetics and you have just exponentially increased
them by the amount of nucleus colonies you have made. By giving them a queen
cell you create a brood break. This allows the mites developing inside the
brood to hatch out, and gives the existing mites no larvae or eggs in which to
create more mites. It will not get rid of the mites, but it will decrease their
numbers. By the time the queen hatches, mates, and begins laying 16 days +/- will
have passed where no eggs have been laid, and the majority of mites will be in
the phoretic stage. Nucleus colonies generally do not suffer the effects of
mites as severely as large colonies (more bees = more mites). The queen can be
evaluated, and the nucleus colony can be put to various other uses. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Summer is business as usual more or less. Monitor mites, and
test for hygienic behavior. This is also the time you want to start removing
that contaminated comb, melting down the wax, and using it for anything other
than new foundation. Any honey harvested from these frames can be sold
commercially, but cannot be sold as treatment free honey, or fed to your own
bees. Basically treat any product of that frame as like chemical waste, isolate
it, get rid of it; minimize the chances of it re-entering your treatment free
operation. Remove the marker from the frame and put it back into circulation.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Next fall, rinse and repeat. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Incorporating this into your treatment-free operation will
allow you to remain profitable, sustainable, and still retain your core
philosophical beliefs without vicariously endangering it by allowing mites to
spread from dead hives. </div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6179175609325731568.post-3376422392306165502013-10-26T18:36:00.000-07:002013-10-26T21:16:50.427-07:00The Practicality of the Practical Beekeeper: Adopting Michael Bush’s Practices in Ontario<!--[if !mso]>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Let’s first begin by pointing out what this is not about. It
is not about proving Michael Bush incorrect, nor about taking a stab at him. I
have a great deal of respect for the man, he dedicates a tireless amount of
time to helping out people with questions on forums; he offers the information
in the book for free on his website; and (from personal experience) willing to
dig up information and references (which he has a wealth of) even if it
contradicts his statements. This is not about attacking treatment free beekeeping;
some people are successful with it –live with it. At the heart of it, he is a
beekeeper with many years of experience, fought wars with both tracheal and
varroa mites, and is successfully treatment free. That deserves the outmost
respect. Nor for the most part, is this a treatment free versus chemical
debate.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The purpose is to take the general framework presented in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Practical Beekeeper</i> and critically
analyse Michael Bush’s method and how it relates to beekeeping in Ontario –with
a general eye towards new beekeepers or conversion to said method. Following
the same framework as the book (as key issues are presented,) we can identify
problems and difficulties associated with each topic. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The equipment Bush chooses to use can be outlined as follows:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Eight frame boxes</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>All Medium boxes</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Narrow frame</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Small Cell / Natural Cell (foundationless)</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Top Entrances</li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Many of his equipment choices focus around the ability to
manage the weight of the boxes. Beekeeper back is laughed about, but until experienced
is a cause for concern –especially if you live in the United States and do not
profit from the same health care system we do. Bush elects to use eight frame,
medium equipment for this reason and frankly I cannot blame him. One benefit of
this setup is the ability to perform walkaway splits. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Traditionally to perform a split we would take our two deep
brood boxes, and divvy up the frames so each received an equal amount of eggs,
open brood, capped brood, honey, and pollen. In this way we can assure that no
matter which box has the queen, the other has the ability to make a new one.
This is fine if the amount of colonies you must perform this on is limited.
Bush’s method is simply to put down a new bottom board and divvy up the four
medium boxes. This is time saving and because the bottom boxes probably have
eggs in them, the odds are likely that the outcome will be positive. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This also allows the ability to be able to “micromanage” bee
resources better. All the boxes use the same frames so everything is interchangeable.
On the contrary a typical two deep brood box plus medium honey super setup does
not allow this. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The downside to this method is the cost. You require more
boxes, and more frames to achieve the same goal. In the United States many of
the major bee suppliers offer very competitive pricing, and free shipping. We
do not. Shipping from the US is extremely cost prohibitive (usually much more than
the cost of the order). To combat that many of the larger suppliers in Ontario
will hire drivers to pick up product from the States, and resale it at a higher
mark-up. This also brings up the topic of availability –it’s not there. I have
not found a single supplier of eight-frame equipment in Ontario.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Barring having someone fabricate you eight frame equipment (and
for the right price I will) we have to immediately eliminate eight-frame
equipment. Our second choice will then have to be whether or not to go with all
mediums. This we can do. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
First let’s compare pricing between several US retailers,
and several Ontario retailers. For sake of comparison we will use Select hive
bodies (no knots), and Plastic foundation (uncoated) in wooden frames –per unit
price.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KrOQuI1gNIN3UkQWXjS6B9uqz2Q4nAco4xok-BZllLyx7ieq7_8d3dVC1l-yKyCEQg6tvh_vsO8SvHKxNhL7aTDkOuiZrVFeOpKkE3BFeDDUe5p-_Q_Q8pD-6aUes1rNomc68ZAG0jE/s1600/prac.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KrOQuI1gNIN3UkQWXjS6B9uqz2Q4nAco4xok-BZllLyx7ieq7_8d3dVC1l-yKyCEQg6tvh_vsO8SvHKxNhL7aTDkOuiZrVFeOpKkE3BFeDDUe5p-_Q_Q8pD-6aUes1rNomc68ZAG0jE/s1600/prac.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-CA; mso-no-proof: yes;"><span id="goog_1577936073"></span><span id="goog_1577936074"></span><span id="goog_1635490766"></span><span id="goog_1635490767"></span><br /></span>
<span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-CA; mso-no-proof: yes;"><span id="goog_1577936073"></span><span id="goog_1577936074"></span><span id="goog_1428147844"></span><span id="goog_1428147845"></span><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bearing in mind, marginal differences but comparable
product, we can discover that Canadian prices are about 20 percent higher than
those of the states. In addition to this we have to factor in our higher sales
tax and shipping/cost of pick up, whereas the American companies both offer free
shipping. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now let’s say we are just starting out. Using these averages
(well stick to the Ontario prices as they are more relevant,) and factoring out
bottom boards, top cover, inner cover, etc. The difference between using all
mediums and standard setup is:<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>3 Medium brood box – $134.25</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>2 Deep brood box – $98.96</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Difference of $35.29<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This works out to being 70% cheaper using deep brood boxes.
It doesn’t take a stretch of the imagination to realize the cost savings over
multiple colonies.<br />
<br /></div>
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Another point worth considering is your bee stock. Unless
you specially ordered, all Ontario bees come in four frame deep nucs. In order
to overcome this hurdle, you would have to start out in deeps slowly expand
downwards with medium boxes, and then take the deep off at the end of the
season filled with honey. This somewhat negates the lifting principal, and
leaves you with a deep box you don’t plan on ever using again. Or, conversely you
can treat your nuc like a package, and shake them into medium undrawn boxes.
This approach would deprive your bees of the resources the nuc provided (and
you paid for), you run the risk of damaging your queen, and you run the risk of
those bees absconding.<br />
<br /></div>
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As far as boxes are concerned you can conclude based off the
evidence that: the lack of availability of eight frame equipment negate the
possibility of using it; and using an all medium setup is cost prohibitive, and
would likely involve some difficulties in achieving (both time, and money).<br />
<br /></div>
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The subject of frames is multifaceted. Bush attempts to
solves three different conditions with his: firstly, he is trying to regress
his bees to 4.9mm small cell; secondly, he is trying to achieve a more natural environment
for the bees allowing them to build their own cells; and finally by using
foundationless he can diminish the amount of contaminated wax in his hives.<br />
<br /></div>
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It would be a ludicrous argument to propose that the current
chemical laden wax supply is anything but a detriment to the bees and the
beekeepers. It is also equally ludicrous to think that you are going to negate
it out of your operation. The bees you purchase will come on contaminated comb,
the foundation you buy will be coated with it, and unless you have a supply of
chemical free wax the foundation/starter strips you coat with it will have it
present as well. This will not happen overnight for you, unless like previous
stated, you treat your bees like a package, without waxed starter strips of any
kind (I don’t suggest it). As Bush puts it, “Having an area of the hive that is
the only part there when chemicals are applied is a nice idea, but it's a lot
like a no-peeing section in a swimming pool.”<br />
<br /></div>
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This means that although you can mitigate the amount, and
not contribute to the contaminated wax it is a reality you will have to come to
terms with.<br />
<br /></div>
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Foundationless frames can be created quite easily from
existing frames using inexpensive materials. It does however involve more
dedication and vigilance on part of the beekeeper. Your hives must be level
from side to side, easy enough. The problem is that it is very illegal in Ontario
to not have “moveable comb hives,” and bees love to build crazy comb. Having
experience in this, it is much easier to start with foundation and insert foundationless<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>frames between drawn comb. Michael Bush
contests this but from personal experience it is not overly successful carte
blanche. Use foundation first.<br />
<br /></div>
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Based on historical data Bush recommends a comb spacing of 1
¼ inches. To achieve this you would have to plane down your own frames.
Historically this is a bit of a half-truth. There have been observations of 1 ¼
inches in brood comb, this is true. It is equally true that the people who made
those same observations noticed a spacing of 1 ½ inches in comb used for honey
storage. Historically many cut the difference and used a comb spacing of 1 3/8.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is also dependent on cell size,
type of bee, climate, many different factors. However if there is one thing we
know about how bees manage the brood nest it is that they keep brood on the
inside and honey towards the outside. Logically speaking that means that the
spacing suggested by Bush would be in agreement with only the centre frames. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If however four or five middle frames were at
the smaller spacing there would not be extra room for an eleventh (or ninth frame
in eight frame equipment). The narrow spacing will work however if you are
inclined to try it.<br />
<br /></div>
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The small cell argument is beekeeping is nothing but
exhaustive. There is enough evidence out there to suggest that it probably will
not help with your varroa problem, however it will not hurt your bees either.
Without opening that can of worms, let’s look at the practicality of it and how
it affects us. Only a few people in Ontario carry MannLake small cell
foundation: Munro Honey, and Dancing Bee. Its expensive ($3.00 @ Munro, $2.35 @
Dancing Bee). It comes unwaxed, so you will have to buy that chemical laden wax
to brush onto it (counterproductive). Finally, they only stock deeps. You
cannot go all medium AND small cell in Ontario. The shipping of one case from
MannLake is over 135 dollars, which is four times then the cost of the product
itself.<br />
<br />
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Top entrances are actually encouraged in this area for
overwintering practices. It is not quite accomplished in the same way as Bush
(he wedges up migratory covers, and uses exclusively top entrances) and we tend
to have a small upper entrance and full bottom entrance. Nevertheless it is an
idea worth adopting, and will help keep moisture out of the hive during winter.</div>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">*you will be cutting
plastic </i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">** serves no purpose</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As you can see, utilizing the equipment choices laid out in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Practical Beekeeper</i> are very
difficult for those of us living north of the border. Most of this is due to
availability of the product (it is available with cost prohibitive shipping). This
is in no way meant to detract from the reasoning behind Bush’s equipment
choices, as they are well thought out and logical; but more to understand the
reality of the logistics involved in making that happen.<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Instead of being pessimistic, begin by accepting this truth.
Once it is understood that the Bushian model of beekeeping is out of reach for
the first year (but still attainable), it is important to think of what can be
done.</div>
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Wax contamination is a problem; we can start reducing the
residual chemicals in the hives by incorporating foundationless into our hives.
Done gradually, we can achieve natural cells both in the brood box, and create
a marketable comb honey. These combs can also be crushed and strained (you didn’t
want to fork out for an extractor this year anyway), the wax rendered, and used
next year.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is also possible to start small cell. The nucs you bought
are on deeps, instead of wasting valuable resources why not embrace using
deeps? Deep brood boxes aren’t even close to the weight of a deep filled with
honey. You might not be able to do a walkaway split, but chances are in your
first year you weren’t going to do that anyway. Wait a few years until your
deep boxes start rotting, and your bees are regressed! By then you will feel
comfortable with migrating to the mediums, and chances are youll have more
laying around from your honey production.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Alternatively if all mediums is important to you –consider a
top bar if it’s a weight issue- there is an easy albeit a little manipulative way
for a first year beekeeper to attain it. You buy a deep brood box for every
hive. Once your nuc has filled out 8-9 of the ten frames, put a medium filled
with foundation underneath of it. Once that is filled out add another medium.
The queen will naturally want to move downward and they will start filling the
deep with honey. When it is filled with honey (we don’t want to waste honey),
remove it. Now your hive is on all mediums, you have a heavy box filled with honey,
and you have removed a great deal of contaminated wax.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once you have extracted a honey crop, made a few bucks, have
a bunch of empty boxes with frames laying around… that’s a decent time to
consider your eight frame equipment (narrow frame fits in here as well). Its
winter, the off season; get access to a table saw. Take them apart and cut them
down eight frame equipment. The following spring simply take the survivors and
move them into new boxes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Michael Bush’s method is not impossible, it is just not
practical (no pun intended) for us to achieve in one year. You must weigh what is important to
you, and demonstrate patience. It is a goal to work towards, concentrate on
keeping your bees alive first.</div>
</div>
</div>
commiskazehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07512054367758849771noreply@blogger.com1